CURRAWINYA

Did you know that one of Australia's most important wetlands is in far western Queensland in a remote, arid and isolated area ?. 900km west of Brisbane just above the Wild Dog Fence ( formally the Dingo Fence ) is Currawinya National Park and at nearly 155 000 hectares it’s a great place to visit and explore the hidden secrets within the park. Access to the park can be done from two directions, is camper trailer friendly but you need to be well prepared  as it’s remote, harsh yet beautiful and you may not see another camper.

From the north, head out to Eulo in western QLD along the Adventurer Way and then south for 100km along the Hungerford road. This unsealed sandy/rocky road is wide and generally in a reasonable condition for the area as you travel on the western side of the Paroo River. Passing through private stations is a remote area and sometimes it makes you wonder, ‘Why would you live out here ?’ For much of the 100km the road is fairly flat with only a few large undulations which gives you a view across the plains towards more scrubby country. Probably the biggest hazard is the wildlife or stock along the way with Emus, goats, kangaroos, cattle and right down to snakes and lizards that need to cross the road in front of you can be a surprise sometimes. The southern entry is via Hungerford, 220km north west of Bourke- right on the NSW QLD border, although it does have a QLD postcode. The roads within and too the park can be impassable when wet due to several creek crossings and flooding from the Paroo river but information can be sourced from NPWS website or local information at Eulo, Cunnamulla or Hungerford. 

Midway along the road through the park you'll be greeted by Currawinya’s stunning rock formations and nearby the park information boards. Here is a great spot to sit down for 5 minutes and read the history and other features of the park and also walk amongst the sandstone sculptures. After getting the heads up about the Currawinya, the road to the camping area is just opposite the sculptures and is an easy 2km drive to the first camping location. Here beside the old shearers shed you can camp and have the joyous option of flushing toilets and bush showers nearby. The water to the showers is gravity fed from a large tank nearby but if you time it right ( mid afternoon ) you'll have hot water because the water runs through black poly pipe on the ground to the showers. The showers are outback style, extra large shower heads, corrugated iron sides that you can peer over and large pieces of hessian for doors and dividers-showering in the outback at its best. But don't worry, there are tall divisions between men and women.

Entry into the massive shearers shed is allowed and it’s fantastic to see everything still in pristine condition after 60 000 sheep were shorn in the shed. Walking around the stalls, monkey press, scales, sorting rack and slips it looks like it wouldn't take much for it to fire up again. In the surrounding area you can wander around other outer buildings, the meat house, accommodation blocks and the woolshed pens.

Not many people realise is that Currawinya is also home to the endangered Bilby and within the park there is a 25km square secret compound where the Bilby’s can freely roam and breed away from humans and other wild predators. A viewing shed, information boards and a large copper statue highlights the importance of what local rangers and volunteers are doing within the park to protect our little marsupial rodent. Currawinya was chosen for the research are as its approximately the centre of where the Bilby roam from. There is a self registration box here too if you haven't done it online or by phone prior to your arrival.

For those who are after a little more secluded camping away from others, head another kilometre or two down past the woolshed and camp beside one of the Ourimperee waterholes. With a long stretch of water to camp beside there is space for everyone. Fishing, throwing a yabbie pot in the waterholes or even kayaking is a great way to spend the afternoon. Camping under the huge river gums while birds float by or dip down for a drink is a real eye opener with Pelicans, Swallows, little Finches and whistling Kites above all making this area home. Further north and west of the old Caiwarro homestead, Pump Hole campground can be found near the old pumping station relics. Right on the Paroo River you can have this whole area to yourself and the only facility is a park bench and chairs. But seeing though this park only sees around 2000 visitors a year finding a spot with water views should be easy. All of the areas are camper trailer friendly, although if heading across the Paroo river just check the depth of the river according to the side markers. 

As well as the great camping options in the park, QLD dept of national parks has open the area to explore other park features. From the woolshed it’s a 30km drive north to the old Caiwarro homestead. Walking around the mangled building ruins and old gear it’s still hard to understand how people survived and gelled out here. But with a tennis court, cricket pitch, school and shop near the grand homestead of Caiwarro it must off been a tight knit community. Walking around the homestead you can still see pieces of machinery still on the ground, chimneys still stand and the structural bones of several buildings are struggling to stand up. Just nearby a track leads you across the Paroo river to the old pumping station where today an old steamer, several boilers, ploughs and windmills are sitting quietly in the paddock. Caiwarro dates back to the mid 1800’s when it covered nearly 1 million acres running sheep and cattle through the billabong system and sand dune country. Over the years the pastoral land was reduced and in 1991 the QLD government purchased the land to protect the wetlands and historical features. 

Currawinya is a special place for the local Budjiti people having a salt and fresh water lake within 5km of each other. 4WD recommended the 28km road to the lakes starts just south of the camp road. This red sand based road winds its way over small dunes and both sides are lined with harsh Mulga trees. Occasionally there are small breaks where you have views across the low level plains past the salt and turkey bush. Separated by only a few dunes the first lake you come to is the fresh water Lake Numalla. Access to this lake is permitted as well as swimming, kayaking, canoeing and fishing in selected areas.

A short 6km drive further west leads you to the lookout station over the salt water Lake Wyara. The viewing area can be disappointing if the lake is low as this is as close as you can get towards the lake, but it’s reported that 3/4 of the parks birds can be found here. Lake Wyara normally dries up first and leaves a vast white salt-pan, leaving the birdlife no other option but to move further north. When Wyara is full and times are good Spoonbill, Seagulls, Ducks, Pelicans and Swans feed on fish and shrimp that are in abundant numbers in the lake. In a good year it’s reported that nearly 100 000 birds frequent these lakes either looking for food or breeding purposes. 

If you have another day to explore Currawinya, just 15km west from camp along the Boorara Road spend time wandering around an outcrop of massive Granite rocks. From the car park you'll stroll past Mulga, Gidgee, Turpentine and Hopwood bush towards the ever increasing rocks that seem to leer at you the closer you get. Wild goats use these rocks for shelter and protecting and just maybe you'll see them scamper away as you get closer or skeletons where they've fallen between rocks. The views from the top are nothing short of spectacular around you and north towards the Hoods Ranges.  

Currawinya just isn't another National Park. It’s home to the endangered Australian Bilby, has some of the best waterside camping in the state, one of the few parks where you need a 4wd to explore the outer reaches, has two completely different lake systems, a massive granite boulder area, historical ruins and a woolshed where you can explore- throw in some recreational activities with fishing, kayaking, birdwatching and walking trails most people wont be disappointed visiting the area.