PENGUIN.....tassie

Penguin -  often described as a little bird that cant fly but is super fast in the cold waters of our polar regions, while this is true its also a stunning place on the north coast of Tasmania. Situated right on the coastal fringe facing Bass Strait the shoreline is forever changing through the wind and swells which can whip up in no time. But it's a beautiful place where the rocky shoreline gives refuge to a host of sea-life and believe it or not, Fairy penguins. Their homes, or Rookeries line this coastal frontage hidden in the thick scrub along the edges of the bay appearing at dawn when they head out to sea to eat and fish for their young and returning at dusk to snuggle in for the night. 

The origins of the town can be traced back to 1820 when Joseph Fossey spent time in the area and explored the hinterland behind Penguin, subsequently naming it Dial Range, a few years later timber cutters worked here cutting up thick logs for palings, and believe or not they were headed for the Victorian Gold fields. The cut palings were often carried from the bush to the shore then taken out by row boat to waiting vessels off shore. Several large mines opened up by 1860 giving the town a boost where Copper, Iron Ore and Silver were found. These days the town survives on tourism and also crop fields and the dairy industry in the fertile hills that surround this beautiful town. Penguin is also known for having the largest permeant undercover markets in all of Tassie !!.

Its easy to spend a few hours just strolling the town soaking up its history, enjoying stunning views, visiting little boutique shops and tasting local delicacies. Beecraft Point, which is just a few hundred meters from town was where Ned Beecraft chose to settle on 170 acres back in 1861 and he was the first “official’’ settler to choose his plot just near Penguin Creek. Along the coastal strip you can still find remnants of the past from the old horse troughs that were in strategic places around town for the working horses for when they carted either goods or towed a buggy to town. They were made with the abundant beach gravel, the same as a host of footpaths, retaining walls and several houses in the town that still can be seen today. 

The towns name actually derived from the hoards of Penguins that were seen back in 1860 by Robert Gunn, and from then on this place seems like a Penguin haven. No matter where you go in town there’s masses of the little critters, wether it be the big Penguin ( think 12 foot tall ), street murals, steel rubbish bins shaped like Penguins and souvenir Penguins in nearly every shop. Around town a there’s a heritage trail where you can visit over 25 different historical buildings from the railway station, old gaol cell to the stunning Uniting church in the main street which is over 150 years old. This two story church can seat over 500 people over the two levels all having perfect views of the minister. A street back from the railway station is a 1/3rd scale replica of a dutch windmill which was donated to the town in 1998 in memorial to the dutch explorers who discovered this part of the coast. 

The area is a nature buffs paradise with plenty of options along the coast or in the hills behind. When the tides are right rock hopping along the edges of the coast is great for the family spotting huge amounts of coastal sea creatures and birdlife. But in the hills behind town is where some of the most stunning walks can be found and this area could be called the Gateway to Cradle Mountain as it looms not very far away. A short 10 min drive to Ferndene Gorge reserve is where you can spend a day exploring beautiful fern lined tracks, follow the tall timber walks and visit Thorsbys and Brownings tunnel which were once silver mines. The tunnel walks are fairly easy with a 1 hour return trip but are definatly well worth it as you follow a creek for some way which is lined with tall tree ferns that give shade to other small petite ferns and moss. The first tunnel Brownings, has been closed off some 40 feet in but you can still walk in to experience tunnel life and Thorsbys tunnel is about 10 minutes further up the track which has collapsed just inside the entrance. Back here at the reserve its the perfect spot to base yourself for the day as you can do one walk - return for lunch then head off in the afternoon to climb either the stunning Mt Gnomon lookout, Mt Dial, Mt Duncan explore the tall timber walk or for the fitness fanatics take the 6 hour hike to Mt Montgomery. Its a stunning walk up around the mountain where fern lined trails are like something out of Jurassic park. 

Within the surrounds of the Dial Range forest area is the Penguin mountain bike park where a host of trails have been cut in for the beginner right through to the advanced rider. Trail loops go from 200 metres right through to a 2km loop with jumps and fast sections included. It’s an amazing area where the mountains meet the sea and leaves the imagination open to what’s beyond the fertile hinterland. Explore and be pleasantly surprised. 

DEVONPORT...Tassie

Devonport on Tassies north coast could be classed as just another port town where not much happens in the rift of the hustle and bustle around ship time, BUT it's known as The Gateway to Tasmania and is surrounded by stunning volcanic fertile hills and a rocky shoreline. White man came to here back in 1823, but the Tommeginne Aboriginals had been here already for nearly 30,000 years where they lived off the land and fished in the river and oceans. Today Devonport is cut in two by the Mersey River but prior to declaration of the towns name in 1890 each side of the river had different names. 

When early settlers arrived here they were not impressed with the barren mountainous landscape and the hostility of the locals especially when Bartholomew Boyle Thomas was killed when he was trying desperately to establish the new settlement. But by the mid 1850’s persistence paid off with several small settlements being built, a port was set up in the deep channel, stores were emerging and a vision was being seen by timber cutters and boat builders. 

 

Today there’s plenty to see around the district for both young and old. Around the port area there’s plenty of grand heritage homes and other buildings that have been restored back to their former glory. The port is now the largest on the north coast of Tasmania and its the home port for the Spirit of Tasmania ships that cross daily from the mainland. At the mouth of the Mersey River you can get up and personal with the Mersey Bluff lighthouse. Made from locally hand made bricks back in 1889 its nearly 20 metres high and has a light range of 27 km out to sea. Around the bluff, follow the Geological trail where 180 million years ago volcanic activity blew rock out of the ground and as it cooled it left unusual rock formations with fracturing throughout. Along the Tiagarra trail ( which means to keep ) keep an eye out for Aboriginal carvings where they sat and engraved different shapes into the rock, now a protected site you can see fish, an emu and other scrolls.

 

Back in 1854 a tramway was built to the west to a small settlement called Don to transport the pristine timber to the port for further shipping. Today the Don rail station has been fully restored and jammed packed with memorabilia, along with the turntable, many steam engines and stunning carriages. The station is now a museum and you can visit the workshop to see the builders restoring and maintaining the old trains, plus if you visit on weekends there’s even train rides up to Coles Beach and back. This rail display is certainly not to be missed and is reportedly the largest in the state. For the maritime buffs, the Bass Strait museum is all about the local shipping history where you can view memorabilia, timber models and ride on a restored fishing boat every Sunday and Wednesday - weather permitting. 

 

Just north of town at Coles beach usual rock formations and pillars rise out of the ocean as part of the volcanic era, namely the Jurassic period. With this comes the fertile soil in the hills surrounding Devonport where an array of some of the best produce is grown. Known as the states market garden area, Devonport alone grows nearly half of Tassie’s veggies, and a drive around the hinterland at any time of the year you’ll see a host including spuds, onions, peas and carrots. 

Overlooking the town is Home Hill where you can wander around a pre 1920 house and grounds. Now Heritage Trust listed it was once the home for Joseph Lyons and his wife for nearly their entire life. Lyons was the Premier of Tasmania and eventually became the Prime Minister back in the mid 1930’s. His wife Dame Enid Lyons was also a member of parliament for many years until she passed away. These days the beautiful home and grounds they once had is as how they left it. 

Just 10 mins from Devonport is the Tasmanian Arboretum which has the worlds largest collect of Tasmanian plants, conifers and other plants from the northern hemisphere. The grounds are built around a couple of old quarries where back in 1856 a tramway was built with timber rails to move the quarried lime to the coast. At the eastern end of the gardens the quarry is highly visible and you can climb to the top of Limestone hill to oversee the quarry, view the old Kiln and see where the original tramline started then headed towards Don through several deep cuttings. The tramway also carried coal and timber out to the port for shipping away. 

Throughout this stunning parkland there’s many different plant rooms, walkways and water falls. A natural creek runs through the 70 hectare property and its a popular place to spot platypus ( when I visited I saw no less than a dozen ) and other shy birds. Speaking of shy birds, north along the coastline a poplar spot at dusk to see the little Penguins is at Leith. Weighing around 1kg each they are the worlds smallest Penguin and can be seen from viewing decks when they return from fishing out at sea during dusk. Best times of the year to see the Fairy penguins is either their breeding season or during the summer months. 

So don’t be put off by the industrial side of Devonport, as with comes maritime history and an array of other popular activities for the whole family.